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CABBAGE-PAK CHOI-ASIAN GREENS

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CABBAGE-PAK CHOI-ASIAN GREENS

A$3.50

Brasica rapa var chinensis
CABBAGE-PAK CHOI-ASIAN GREENS also known as Bok Choy or Chinese Cabbage  –  is a fast-growing, cool-season Asian vegetable prized for its crisp stems and tender green leaves.  Originating from China, this versatile plant is packed with vitamins A, C, and K, and adds a delicious mild, mustard-like flavour to stir-fries, soups, and salads. It’s an excellent choice for home gardeners because it grows quickly, can be harvested young as baby greens or mature heads, and thrives in small garden beds or pots. With the right soil, moisture, and temperature, you can enjoy a continuous supply of fresh, healthy greens almost all year round.
These seeds have been home grown by Dennis and tested by me.  You can see the results on facebook posts.

 

 

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How to Grow Pak Choi (Bok Choy)

  1. Best grown in autumn and spring, or year-round in mild climates. 
  2. Avoid hot weather, as high temperatures cause bolting (premature flowering) which is actually a good time to pick seeds.
  3. Pak Choi  prefers fertile, well-drained soil rich in organic matter with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5.
  4. Add composted soil or aged organic manure before planting for strong healthy sprouting
  5. Sow to a depeth of  0.5–1 cm (¼–½ in) deep. And keep soil moist during germination
  6. Space thinly or transplant seedlings 20 – 0 cm (8 – 12 in) apart in rows 30 – 45 cm (12 – 18 in) apart.
  7. Germination occurs best between 13 – 24 °C (55 – 75 °F) for crisp stems and tender leaves.
  8. Perfers full sun to partial shade or light shade in warm climates to reduce heat stress.
  9. Water consistently to keep soil moist but not waterlogged.
  10. Mulch to retain moisutre and prevent soil from drying out.
  11. Fertilise with a balanced fertilise or one righ in nitrogen every 2 – 3 weeks to encourge leafy growth, but avoid excessive nitrogen late in the  growth cycle to prevent the stems from going soft.
  12. Harvest in 6 – 8 weeks.   You can pick individual leaves for ongoing harvest or cut the entire heads off when mature.

Additional growing tips for Pak Choi-Asian Greens

  • Stagger your sowings:  Sow small batches every 2-3 weeks instead of one big planting to avoid everything maturing at once – ideal for continuous harvests and less pest pressure.
  • Partial-shade trick in warm climates:  In hot weather, plant Pak Choi on the eastern side of taller crops (like tomatoes, corn, or trellised cucumbers) so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade – this helps prevent bolting.
  • Use a “moist-start” method:  Before sowing, water the soil deeply, then sow seeds into the damp surface and lightly cover with dry soil. This reduces crusting and improves germination.
  • Companion cover mulch:  Surround plants with living mulch such as low-growing herbs (e.g., coriander or parsley) to shade the soil, conserve moisture, and deter flea beetles.
  • Grow under insect netting from day one:  Flea beetles and cabbage moths often attack seedlings early – placing fine mesh or netting immediately after sowing can prevent most infestations before they start.
  • Cool-root hack:  In warm regions, mulch heavily with straw or sugarcane to keep roots cool; heat around the base triggers stress and premature flowering.
  • Harvest “cut-and-come-again” style:  Instead of pulling the whole plant, cut leaves 2-3 cm (1 in) above the base – the centre will regrow for multiple harvests, extending the crop’s life.
  • Water early, not late:  Water in the morning, not evening – reduces humidity overnight and lowers the risk of fungal issues like downy mildew.
  • Liquid compost tea boost:  A fortnightly watering with diluted worm tea or compost tea keeps the soil microbes active and boosts leaf quality without over-fertilising.
  • Succession trick with radishes:  Sow radishes between Pak Choi rows – they germinate faster, mark the row spacing, deter pests, and are harvested before the Pak Choi matures.
  • Shade-cloth mini tunnel:  A 30-40% shade cloth tunnel can drastically extend the growing season in warm regions like Queensland — preventing bolting and keeping leaves tender.
  • Cold-frame advantage:  In cooler areas, grow under a clear plastic cold-frame or mini-greenhouse to maintain warmth and speed growth without full sun exposure.

Heritage of Pak Choi-Asian Greens

Pak Choi (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) is one of China’s oldest cultivated vegetables, dating back over 1,500 years. The name “Pak Choi” comes from Cantonese, meaning “white vegetable”, while “Bok Choy” is its Mandarin counterpart. Originally grown in the Yangtze River Delta region, it spread across Asia and became a staple in Chinese, Korean, and Japanese cuisines. By the 18th century, it was introduced to Europe through early trade routes and later to North America and Australia with Chinese migration. Today, Pak Choi remains a cornerstone of Asian and global cuisine, valued for its rapid growth, nutritional content, and adaptability to diverse climates. (Sources: National Library Board Singapore, Rutgers University – NJAES, PROSEA – Plant Resources of South-East Asia) SHOP Garden Supplements Category Colour Guide Planting Guide for Australia

CABBAGE-PAK CHOI-ASIAN GREENS

A$3.50

How it works

We want to help you and make your life easier. So we compiled all the instructions on how to use our eco-eze compot. The detailed guide contains a few simple steps to install a Compot, fill a Compot, propagate with a Compot, empty a Compot or move a Compot.

More About Us

When I started this journey in 2009, I found nothing existed commercially, that was reasonably priced and easy to use. There was a homemade system which I also found was not that user-friendly.

Then a friend of mine told me about a homemade method she used.   However, when I tried her method, I found this also didn’t suit my needs, as it too had flaws that I considered where important. It did not keep vermin out, did not have a lockable lid and (to me) looked unsightly in the garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

YES. Absolutely you can fill it with just worm friendly scraps if that is what you prefer, but you will have to separate all your scraps into two piles. I personally don’t have time to fiddle with separating food waste and just toss it all in together. One thing though – you may find the Compot will need emptying more often as the worms try to fill the pot up with soil and their castings. But you will have beautiful compost more regularly to harvest if this is your aim and your Compot will be full of worms.

There is no need to water your Compots specifically. When you water your garden water will naturally go into the Compot through the holes and this is a good thing as it will keep the contents nice and moist.

If, however, you found your pots were really dry and the waste was not decomposing at all then you might want to add some water to soften the waste to help the decomposition process along. Dry contents can occur when you don’t cover your Compots with leaves, or hay etc because the hot sun gets in, in summer, and dries the contents out, dehydrating the waste rather than decomposing it. Much the same as if you were to throw your waste out onto an open lawn without burying it. The same will happen in winter but this time it is the cold air drying out or freezing the contents.

You can fill your Compot with any biodegradable waste from your kitchen. IE: Anything that will break down. EG: Meat, citrus, onions, oil, dairy, eggs, coffee grounds, tea and tea bags, paper towel, old nuts, pasta, bread, cooked food of any sort, wastewater (with or without detergent), milk, cream, yogurt, and anything else you can find in your kitchen that you would normally eat or throw in your council bin, aside from the obvious; glass, plastic, metal etc. So literally everything that you produce in the kitchen that is biodegradable.

Everything will decompose – even doggie doo (un-medicated preferably unless you are putting this waste by a big tree or unused part of your garden). No doggie doo in your veggie patch either.

The time it takes to decompose will just depend on the density of the food, the time of the year, and whether you are relying on all the elements to decompose your waste or just worms.

If you only want to fill your Compot with worm friendly scraps, then you need to leave out most of what I just said you could put in the Compot. It’s up to you how you want to use your Compot and what you feed it. But I find it more efficient to fill it with everything. Just do what is best for you. See other tips and tricks about ways to make it work faster.

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CABBAGE-PAK CHOI-ASIAN GREENS

A$3.50

Reviews from Google

Tammy Nguyen
I knew about Vicki's compot system about 2 years ago. At first, I was wondering how it works and whether it is a fast and effective composting system. Vicki was very helpful in explaining how it works and offered lots of tips to set up different ways to use the compot.
Kay
I purchased two of these compost bins, put them into my flower gardens, started putting all of my scraps into one first and then the other. So now I just rotate using them. I am very glad I purchased two, as it’s working very well for me.
Hendrika Kwan
Install once and just top it like any dustbin. A dustbin that handles any waste that will rot. The plants then help themselves to available nutrients and the organic mattee will be reduced in time. Simple, straight forward and self maintaining.
5 Star Reviews
5/5

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    Coupon Code: BFriday

    Receive A Free Compot + Lid

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    *One coupon redeemable per order.
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