Frequently Asked Questions

Yes, absolutely, you can fill it with just worm-friendly scraps if that is your preference, but you will need to separate all your scraps into two piles. Personally, I don’t have time to fiddle with separating food waste, so I just toss it all in together. One thing to note, though: you may find that the Compot needs emptying more often as the worms attempt to fill the pot up with soil and their castings. However, if your goal is regular compost harvests and having a pot full of worms, then this method is ideal.

Using your Eco-Eze Compot for only worm-friendly waste works well in above-ground garden systems. However, if you’re using it in the ground, you need to be aware that every garden critter is looking for a quick feed. If you notice something digging around your pots or trying to get inside them, then you’ll need to follow my instructions on “Soaking Your Waste” in any wastewater you’re disposing of down your drain. This process serves multiple purposes, one of which is fermenting the waste to deter unwanted garden critters like rats, mice, possums, bush turkeys, antechinus and many more.

Worms generally take longer to break down waste compared to soldier flies and you can’t compost all your waste when using worms. So, consider this when deciding how you want to use your pots — with worms or without.

Even if you fill your pots with all your kitchen waste, the worms will still be present in your garden. You just won’t see them inside your pots with the soldier flies unless the soldier flies have mostly vacated your pot. Instead, they will be outside consuming the remnants that filter out from your pots into the soil as the soldier flies consume your waste.

There is no need to water your Compots specifically. When you water your garden, water will naturally seep into the Compot through the holes, which is beneficial as it keeps the contents moist.

However, if you notice that your pots are extremely dry and the waste is not decomposing, you might consider adding some water to soften the waste and aid the decomposition process. Dry contents can occur when you don’t cover your Compots with leaves or hay, allowing the hot sun to dry out the contents, essentially dehydrating the waste instead of decomposing it. This is similar to throwing waste onto an open lawn without burying it. In winter, the same effect can occur with cold air drying out or freezing the contents.

If your pots have dried out, giving them a good flush with water and a little stir can help restore them to working order. However, there’s no need to do this unless your pots have dried out significantly.

Alternatively, if you find your pots full of ants, it’s likely due to the dry waste, as ants are attracted to it. In this case, filling your pot with water can help eliminate nesting ants, as they prefer drier environments.

You can fill your Compot with any biodegradable waste from your kitchen, such as meat, citrus, onions, oil, dairy, eggs, coffee grounds, tea and tea bags, paper towels, old nuts, pasta, bread, cooked food of any sort, fish, prawns, crab, oyster, wastewater (with or without detergent), milk, cream, yogurt and anything else you would normally eat or dispose of in your council bin, excluding obvious non-biodegradable items like glass, plastic and metal. Essentially, everything produced in the kitchen that is biodegradable can be composted.

Even dog waste can decompose, preferably un-medicated, unless you are placing it near a large tree or an unused part of your garden. Avoid placing dog waste in your vegetable patch.

The time it takes for decomposition will vary depending on factors such as the density of the food, the time of year, the moisture content of the contents, and whether you are relying solely on natural elements or utilizing worms for decomposition.

If you prefer to fill your Compot with only worm-friendly scraps, you’ll need to exclude most of the items mentioned above. Ultimately, it’s your choice how you want to use your Compot and what you choose to feed it. However, I find it more efficient to include a variety of waste. You can explore other tips and tricks for accelerating the composting process.

Perspective plays a significant role here; I wouldn’t necessarily label one as superior over the other, but rather as distinct alternatives for several reasons.

In a worm farm, certain items like meat products, citrus, onions, cooking fats and oils, dairy or animal wastes are prohibited, whereas the Eco-Eze Compot accommodates all these and more.

Organic matter and worm juice seamlessly integrate into the soil, eliminating the cumbersome task of emptying heavy worm trays or collecting the juice separately. This is especially advantageous for those with busy schedules, as it reduces one chore from their list.

Worms in the Compot thrive naturally in the ground, adhering to their typical behaviour without the risk of confinement-related mortality.

Adding worms is only necessary in cases of poor soil quality or for breeding purposes.

Unlike in a worm farm where worms are restricted to one location, those in the Compot freely roam the garden, enriching and nurturing the entire area as they move between pots.

In the event that soldier flies dominate a worm farm, they can decimate the worm population. Additionally, above-ground temperatures may plummet during winter, impacting decomposition efficiency and potentially resulting in unpleasant odours.

Should soldier flies overrun the worm farm, worm loss necessitates replacement. However, recurrence is likely without addressing the soldier fly issue unless proactive measures are taken to manage the worm farm and deter them.

Unlike in a worm farm where hatched soldier flies cannot escape, in the ground-based Compot, they emerge, mature, reproduce, and perish, rarely posing a visible nuisance or concern.

During mild winters, soldier flies can remain active within the Compot if adequately covered to retain warmth. Introducing grass clippings atop food waste generates heat, maintaining a cozy environment during winter, although hibernation may occur if temperatures drop significantly.

For those keen on collecting worm juice, a dedicated worm farm is necessary. Alternatively, soak the composted contents from the Compot in water overnight after the departure of soldier flies and worms to produce homemade worm juice.

I recommend utilizing this nutrient-rich worm juice on lawns, as gardens benefit from continuous nourishment via Compot leachate, whereas lawns typically receive none. So why not extend the benefits to your lawn with your own fertilizer?

Yes, you can put animal waste in your Compot. However, I advise against placing animal excrement in a Compot near your vegetable garden. Ideally, the excrement should be free of medication. If you’ve recently wormed your pet, avoid adding this excrement to the Compot if you’re using worms for waste decomposition, as it can be harmful to them. Medicated waste won’t affect soldier flies, so positioning your Compot near a large established tree allows the flies to dispose of both medicated and normal animal waste.

Ensuring the animal waste is moist facilitates quicker breakdown. Dry waste, similar to food waste, takes longer to decompose and poses challenges for garden critters and bacteria involved in composting.

In my experience, adding kitchen waste, either all of it or a portion, along with animal waste seems to enhance the efficiency of soldier flies. They appear to thrive better with a varied diet. Combining animal waste with kitchen scraps can also deter dogs from digging, especially if the scraps are soaked to ferment them. Most dogs dislike the smell of their own excrement or fermented waste. Soak the waste in wastewater for a day or two before adding it to the Compot along with dog waste. This combination generally deters dogs.

However, individual dogs vary, so understanding your dog’s behaviour is essential. If your dog consumes its own waste, preventing them from digging into a Compot might be challenging. In such cases, placing the Compot in an area inaccessible to the dog is advisable.

Alternatively, if you aim to prevent dogs from digging in any of your pots and they don’t consume their waste, you can place an empty jar lid on top of the Compot lid (on the outside) and fill it with dog waste. The smell of the waste will deter dogs without introducing it directly into your garden. Later, you can transfer this waste to a dedicated composting container, known as a Com”Poo”Pot, positioned under a large tree for further decomposition and replace it with fresh dog waste in the lid.

Soldier flies lay their larvae outside the Compot, often within the coverings used to seal the lid. Despite their minuscule size, they can find their way into the Compot through tiny openings once hatched. These larvae thrive on the food scraps within the Eco-Eze Compot, consuming them at a rapid pace and outpacing even worms. The resulting juices, known as leachate, seep into the surrounding soil, providing instant and natural nourishment to your plants. Alternatively, worms within the soil may absorb the leachate, further processing it through their systems until it emerges as nutrient-rich castings once sufficiently deacidified.

As soldier flies progress through their life cycle, they undergo a transformation from soft white larvae, which can serve as an excellent protein source for animals like chickens, fish, lizards, birds, and frogs, to mature flies covered in a harder black exterior. Upon reaching this stage, they exit the Compot to pupate in the nearby soil. After emerging as flies, they fly off in search of a mate, laying more larvae before eventually perishing. This cycle presents an opportunity for them to become food for other garden creatures, making them a valuable addition to ecosystems, particularly in chicken pens where they provide natural protein.

Soldier flies are beneficial insects and should not be exterminated. Rich in protein, they are increasingly recognised as a sustainable source of food for livestock. Their presence in your garden should be welcomed as they play a crucial role in preparing waste for worms and plant nutrition. Embracing these insects and other beneficial bugs is essential as they contribute to a healthy garden environment without posing any harm to humans. Additionally, they exhibit greater efficiency in waste decomposition compared to worms and yield nutrient-rich substances that surpass worm castings in quality.

In my experience, soldier flies can occasionally lead to unpleasant odours in above-ground compost systems. However, utilising the Compot method I recommend can mitigate this issue, offering a super-fast composting solution that operates differently from conventional above-ground systems.

Composting above ground with a Compot

The Compot Top started as a fun idea, but it has proven to be effective! It’s particularly useful for part-time gardeners or those lacking space or specialised equipment for propagating herbs and seeds. Moreover, it’s enjoyable for kids and eliminates the need for a large shed or specialised equipment like warming trays. In colder climates, it acts as a barrier against cold air, safeguarding your seedlings from potential damage.

Functioning akin to a greenhouse, the heat emanating from the compost underneath warms the seeds, maintains moisture in the air and shields them from external elements and pests, fostering accelerated growth. You’ll notice that seedlings thrive faster compared to those left exposed to the open air. Try it out yourself to witness the difference.

Watering the seedlings is convenient with the Compot Top; simply water the top surface, allowing the water to seep through the holes and aid gas escape during the growing process.

During the growing cycle, there’s no need to remove the Top unless desired, until the seedlings are robust enough for transplanting into your garden. The Top incorporates UV protection, but some seedlings may require “hardening off” before prolonged exposure to intense sunlight.

With just one pot and Top, topping up your Compot with additional waste is hassle-free; simply remove the Top using the Lift Pin provided. This feature is especially beneficial for growing wheatgrass, particularly in winter or in a chicken pen.

The Lift Pin also facilitates lid removal when using toilet rolls for seed propagation. The updated design of the Propagator Top allows for watering without removing the Top, aligning with the holes in the toilet rolls for seamless watering. The Propagator Top is especially good for growing Wheat Grass if you are an avid juicer of wheatgrass. Simply fill the lid with soil, soak your wheat seeds and spread evenly ontop of the dirt.  Connect the Propagator Top to the Pot and watch your wheat grass grow. 

Toilet rolls offer the advantage of longer length, enabling seeds to develop deeper roots. When replanting, you can simply pick out a toilet roll and place it directly in the garden, as worms will eventually consume it.

Depending on your growth objectives, securing the Compot Top directly in the garden with the provided Four Stakes may yield impressive results. In hotter climates, consider propagating in shaded areas during summer. Like any gardening endeavour, experimentation is key to finding what works best in your environment and climate.

Your Compot should ideally not emit any odour. By covering it with grass clippings or any other topping used in your garden to retain moisture, you can effectively prevent any unpleasant smells. This covering acts as a filter for odours, particularly during the initial few days. Once the Compot settles, there should be no odour, even when disposing of items like prawns.

However, if you do encounter a smell, it may be due to improper covering or insufficient moisture. Adding more water, cardboard, or lime can help mitigate any odour. Maintaining adequate moisture levels is crucial; personally, I keep my Compots consistently moist, which has prevented any odour issues for me.

If grass clippings aren’t available, you can use alternatives such as leaves, mulched garden clippings, straw, shredded bamboo, coconut fibre, hay, lucerne or pea straw. Avoid using dirt or sugar cane mulch, as the latter may attract rodents due to its sweet scent when heated in the garden. Experiment with different materials to find what works best for your specific circumstances.

Another potential cause of odour is introducing fresh meat or unsoaked mixed waste into the Compot. Ideally, soak all mixed waste in wastewater collected from your kitchen before adding it to the Compot. Soaking helps mix and dilute odours, initiates decomposition, and can ferment the waste, which soldier fly larvae prefer over worms. However, if you’re using the Compot as an in-ground worm farm, avoid soaking the waste, as worms prefer fresher material.

Inadequate drainage due to poorly draining soil can also lead to odour issues, turning the Compot into a sump. Various solutions can address this, outlined in additional tips and tricks.

While the Eco-Eze Compot is user-friendly, it may not suit every garden situation. Experimentation and troubleshooting specific issues can help optimise its performance. If problems persist, seeking assistance can provide personalised solutions.

Additionally, while the above-ground method of composting with the Compot offers rapid waste disposal, it may not nourish the soil as deeply as when planted in the ground. However, it remains a convenient option for quick composting and allows for easy relocation within the garden to nourish various plants or trees.

Composting above ground with a Compot

No, for several compelling reasons:

1. A larger size would occupy excessive space in the garden, creating dead zones that are visible and unappealing.
2. Larger masses take significantly longer to decompose, prolonging the composting process.
3. Removal or mowing over a larger Compot would be challenging.
4. The production and selling costs would be prohibitive.
5. A larger Compot would likely only cater to one area of your garden, limiting its overall effectiveness.
6. There would be safety concerns if the lid were left off and someone accidentally fell into the Compot.
7. Engineering a large lid strong enough for safety would be difficult and costly, potentially requiring materials like metal that could leach harmful substances into the soil.

The Compot is designed to be the size it is for several practical reasons:

1. It can be easily moved by individuals of any age.
2. Its compact size minimizes its footprint in the garden.
3. It can be discreetly hidden from view.
4. Smaller quantities decompose more quickly.
5. Soil can be harvested in as little as one month if desired.
6. Spreading several Compots throughout the garden nourishes multiple areas without the need for constant compost spreading.
7. Worms will gradually enrich the entire garden as they move from pot to pot, provided the soil remains adequately moist.

Additionally, the Compot features a reversible lid that can be safely mowed over, allowing for placement near trees or other landscaping features. However, caution is advised when using heavy ride-on mowers to prevent damage to the lid.

Certainly, you can use the soil inside the Compot. However, keep in mind that it is highly concentrated and nutrient-rich due to the diverse array of waste materials you’ve added to the pot.

When incorporating this soil into your garden, it’s crucial to mix it with other soil to prevent burning your plants. A rough guideline is to blend one or two handfuls of Compot soil with approximately 5 litres of regular soil. After spreading it around your garden, be sure to water it thoroughly to disperse the nutrients and dilute any concentrated elements.

Alternatively, you can soak one or two handfuls of Compot soil in a bucket of water overnight to create worm tea. This is particularly useful during annual pot cleanouts, especially for items like bones and large seeds, to extract the nutrient-rich black soil before discarding them. After soaking, you can dry and crush items like bones and eggshells to reintroduce calcium into your garden soil.

To make worm tea, strain the soaked soil through an old strainer and then pour the resulting tea onto your garden or lawn. Afterwards, you can dispose of the remnants in the bin or crush and reuse them as desired.

If the soil generated in the Compot comes from soldier flies, it’s commonly referred to as “soldier fly frass.” This frass is richer than worm castings due to the wider variety of ingredients fed to the soldier flies. Ensure thorough watering when spreading soldier fly frass in your garden to maximize its effectiveness.

Yes, you can use it to nourish a hole for planting a tree or shrub. Here’s how:

1. Plant a Compot in a spot in your garden where you intend to plant a tree or shrub.
2. Fill the Compot with your waste over the course of a month or two.
3. Allow the Compot to sit for 2 to 3 weeks. During this time, the contents will decompose, turning into a mushy mixture likely filled with larvae. This partially decomposed material is ideal for planting.
4. Remove the Compot from the ground and empty the contents back into the hole you’ve dug for planting.
5. Don’t worry about the larvae; they will either find their way out or contribute further to the composting process.
6. Ensure the hole is large enough to accommodate your new plant. If not, dig the hole deeper before filling it with the Compot contents.
7. Cover the waste with a layer of soil, roughly one to two inches thick, and then plant your tree or shrub on top.
8. The nutrients in the decomposing waste will gradually break down, providing fertilization for your plant over the next few months. Think of it as planting a nutrient bomb beneath your plant.

For specific comments and experiences regarding this method, you can refer to customer feedback.

If you already have a worm farm that you’re fond of, there’s no need to abandon it. You can simply use the Compot for disposing of items that aren’t suitable for your worm farms, such as meat, citrus, onions, chilli, dairy and oil.

Similarly, if you’re using a bokashi bucket, you’ll still need to bury the waste after it has been spray or mixed with either Bokashi Spray or Bokashi Bran. In this case, you can utilize a Compot for this purpose and periodically move it around your garden every 6 months to a year to nourish different areas. Alternatively, consider planting multiple Compots around your garden to streamline the process, eliminating the need to constantly dig holes for your bokashi waste or relocate your pots. This approach makes nourishing your garden much more convenient.

The Compot complements a bokashi system by providing space for waste items that aren’t suitable for bokashi composting, as well as offering additional capacity while waiting for waste to decompose in the bokashi bucket. Unlike with bokashi, where you must wait for everything to decompose before refilling, with the Compot, you can continuously add waste without delay, simply topping it up and rotating between multiple Compots if needed.

For those residing in units and utilizing a bokashi system, the Compot offers a discreet solution. You can conceal it in the gardens of your unit complex, contributing to the garden’s health without taking up noticeable space or inconveniencing other tenants. Alternatively, consider setting up an above-ground composting method in the common garden area for faster composting. This allows you to compost larger quantities of waste without disrupting the shared garden space. However, be sure to obtain approval from the body corporate before implementing this method.

No, you don’t necessarily need the Compot Top unless you’re interested in experimenting with seed propagation or safeguarding young seedlings in your garden from pests like bugs and slugs.

The Compot Top can be utilised for growing plants directly in your garden, although it won’t be as efficient as a traditional hothouse setup since it won’t benefit from the heat generated by the compost below. However, it still serves as an effective cover for protecting new seedlings. It’s important to acclimate the plants gradually before removing the cover, as the material contains a small amount of UV protection to shield the seedlings from intense sunlight.

Using the Compot Top provides a fun and convenient way to propagate seeds without the need for specialised equipment like sheds or warming trays typically associated with seed propagation. I’m constantly discovering new plants that thrive under the cover and experimenting with different techniques in various conditions. It’s an ongoing learning experience for me.

Yes, it generally does keep rats out. However, the key is to soak your scraps in wastewater to ferment them, ideally for a few days. Personally, I soak my scraps for at least a week because I don’t have time to empty the scrap bucket every day. Soaking and fermenting the scraps helps deter rats. If you notice something digging around your pots or attempting to get inside, then it’s a sign that you need to soak and ferment your scraps.

I also advise against using sugar cane mulch as a cover over the lids because it emits a sweet molasses smell that can attract rats. I’ve found that covering pots with sugar cane mulch often leads to rat problems. However, every area is different, and some people may not have issues with rats. It’s important to figure out what works best in your specific environment.

This same method can also help deter other garden critters, such as dogs, bush turkeys, Antechinus, possums and raccoons (in Canada), among others. Fermenting your waste by soaking it in water before adding it to the Compot can help keep these pests away. Every time you top up your Compot, the water flushes nutrients into the surrounding soil, providing instant nourishment to your plants. Therefore, it’s beneficial to use wastewater rather than freshwater, especially if you don’t have a Grey Water System.

However, if you have chickens and place a Compot inside their pen, avoid soaking your scraps. Chickens need access to the scraps for protein, particularly the soldier flies attracted to the waste. Additionally, fermented scraps may deter chickens from eating greens grown on top of the Compot, as they can detect the smell. To use a Compot effectively in a chicken pen, consider placing it inside an old planter pot container. You can find instructions on setting up an above-ground composter in this link or by watching a video on YouTube.

Wastewater, to me, encompasses anything that I would typically dispose of down the drain, including dishwashing water.

Recently, I’ve discovered that adding a bit of detergent to the wastewater along with scraps is beneficial, especially if you struggle with dry soil. The detergent helps break the surface tension of the soil, facilitating the leaching of juices into the surrounding soil in your garden.

I recommend saving water from any containers you’re rinsing out before recycling. This water can be added to your scraps and any other water you can salvage from going down the drain. However, don’t stress too much about it; just do the best you can.

If your scrap container accumulates more water than scraps, you can empty it right away. Otherwise, keep your scraps covered in this water for as long as it remains tolerable to you—this might range from overnight to a few days. Properly covered scraps should not emit odours for up to five days or longer, depending on the type of waste collected.

Should you notice any unpleasant odours emanating from the scrap container, consider emptying it or adding more wastewater to dilute the odour. This buys you additional time before needing to empty it, ensuring that it doesn’t become a daily chore. You can also incorporate plenty of citrus into the mix, as it imparts a pleasant aroma, even within your Compot.

There have been occasions when my scraps have sat in water for over 30 days due to a busy schedule. Surprisingly, at a certain point, the odour dissipates, allowing the container to remain on my sink for an extended period before requiring disposal. However, it’s essential to find what works best for your garden, as there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. If you notice any disturbances around your pots, it’s a sign that you may need to soak your scraps for a longer duration.

If you predominantly feed your kitchen scraps to your chickens, you may not have much leftover to fill multiple pots. However, this can vary depending on your family size, the amount of waste generated, and what your chickens won’t consume, as well as the dietary needs of other household pets.

Consider planting a Compot inside your chicken pen and filling it with scraps that your chickens won’t eat or with waste collected during the cleaning of the chicken pen. While this might entail some extra effort, there are usually other creatures around, like insects or smaller animals, that will consume any leftovers from the chickens.

Here’s some good news: when soldier flies find their way into the pot within the chicken pen, the chickens will naturally scratch around to access the larvae, which are rich in protein—a nutritious treat for them. Even if a few maggots find their way in, it’s not a cause for concern, as chickens happily consume them too.

Additionally, you can grow greens on top of the pot, using the Compot Top, providing a source of nutrition for the chickens. When the greens are sprouting, they offer high protein content for the chickens and as they grow, they contribute to healthier eggs. You can experiment with various greens like wheatgrass, barley or oats.

If you encounter an issue where your chickens dig up the pot entirely, there’s a workaround. Plant the Compot inside a large planter pot and fill the surrounding area with biodegradable materials like paper, weeds or chicken waste—anything that decomposes easily. This setup ensures that the inside of the Compot is dedicated to food waste, while the outer area acts as a barrier against the chickens’ digging tendencies.

To facilitate easy access for the chickens, consider positioning the top of the pot at a height suitable for pecking. While covering the Compot isn’t always necessary inside the chicken pen, it can encourage soldier flies to venture into the open where the chickens can snack on them. However, this may vary depending on factors like weather conditions.

As soldier flies begin to pupate, the chickens can continue to enjoy them as a treat. You can also grow wheatgrass or similar greens on top of the pot, providing a nutritious supplement to their diet. If these methods don’t resolve the issue, don’t hesitate to seek further assistance. You might need to adjust the placement or implement additional strategies to ensure the chickens and Compot coexist harmoniously.

Personally, I love grass clippings because…

They filter any odours (which you should not smell any odour, but garden critters can)

They maintain the temperature inside the Compot for all the composting critters

They keep the summer hot air and winter cold air out

They reduce evaporation of water from your soil and from your Compot

They maintain moisture in your soil

They are FREE and usually plentiful in most gardens

And they break down into the most beautiful soil on and around your Compot

The only drawback is they matt together causing water to run off instead of soaking into your soil.  Thus you need to push your hose into the grass clippings when watering unless you lay some irritation tape on top of your soil and then cover it with your grass clippings.  Your soil will get watered, evaporation is reduced, the grass composts down quickly and you have saved yourself some money and a lot of hard work turning compost piles full of grass clippings and leaves.

To Use or Not to Use – Grass Clippings ?

The other cover I really love is Shredded Bamboo

It takes a long time to decompose

Makes a nice cover over your Compot and garden bed – looks neat and tidy

It allows water through (unlike grass clippings which can matt together)

Reduces evaporation

Maintains moisture in your garden underneath the top layer

The worms take it deep down into the soil around your Compots improving your soil structure at a much deeper level – the 30cm zone where your plants feed. Particularly good for clay and sandy soil

Easy to spread and remove from the top of the Compot

The only drawback – it costs money

And the bottom of the bag can hold Cobblers Peg seeds. So don’t use the last bit from the bag or keep an eye on your garden and quickly remove little shoots as soon as they show their heads.

Other covers that work

Leaves – take a long time to break down unless scrunched up, but create a great cover.

Hay or Lucerne – adds great nutrients to the soil

Coconut Fibre – a bit fiddly but they work if you have nothing else

Mulch – as long as it does not have a high dirt factor – hoop pine mulch is quite a good cover for your pot and the garden.

Sugar Cane Mulch – great around your edibles and cheap but flies away in the wind.  Also, I have found it attracts rats. thus if you have a rat problem I don’t recommend it.  From my experiments I have found it releases a sweet molasses smell that under normal circumstances would not be an issue in your garden.   But add a Compot full of food and bugs (plus a garden full of ripe veggies) with the sweet smell of molasses and you have a possible situation to attract rats.   If you soak your scraps in your wastewater I have found this is the best deterrent – less the sugar cane mulch as well.

Paper – make sure it is shredded and wet and spread thinly so air can still penetrate your soil.  Then cover it with any of the other covers and the worms will come up to the surface and eat it.  But it is a slow process.  And if it dries out, they won’t eat it.  I have worked out how to get rid of your paper with my above ground Compot method.  (video on YouTube)

What I don’t like is fake wood chips. They don’t break down and get caught in the opening of the Compot.  They are of no value to your soil other than to look good.

Plastic garden covers is not ideal either. It might keep weeds out but it heats up and kills your good bugs as well. And removing it can also be a big issue.

Rocks are not a great cover either and a nightmare to remove if you change your mind.

But it’s up to you what you use.

Initially, the Compot nurtures an area spanning approximately 50 to 100 cm around its base. This area’s expansion hinges on your soil moisture management. When the soil remains adequately moist, facilitating worm movement, the nourished zone can extend. Conversely, in dry soil conditions, worms tend to congregate around the pot, benefiting from the continual leaching moisture, but refrain from venturing further into the garden due to soil aridity.

To maintain soil moisture, cover garden beds with materials such as straw, hay, mulch, leaves, grass clippings, coconut fibre or shredded bamboo. Consistent watering augments these efforts, with results correlating to gardening diligence. Even for less experienced gardeners with time constraints, the Compot stands as an efficient and user-friendly waste disposal solution.

Although some advise spacing Compots every 2 meters, such strict adherence is unnecessary. Rather, tailor your approach to suit your garden’s unique needs and soil characteristics. Should you identify areas in need of revitalization, relocating a Compot for approximately six months can rejuvenate the soil. Flexibility and adaptation based on personal gardening styles and soil conditions yield the best outcomes.

Yes and no—it all hinges on your available time, space and the season. However, soaking scraps facilitates faster waste decomposition, particularly over extended periods. This practice proves invaluable during winter, especially if Soldier Flies tend to hibernate in your region. Yet, in colder temperatures, Compots may slow down; thus, pre-soaking waste in water, preferably overnight or for a few days, accelerates decomposition, even in the absence of Soldier Flies—although at a slower pace, provided the contents haven’t frozen entirely.

For those who accumulate waste in a kitchen pot over several days before disposal, incorporating wastewater—such as leftover pasta or vegetable cooking water, rinsing water from recyclable containers or any non-chemically contaminated sink water—enhances Compot efficiency. Well-soaked scraps, particularly soft and moist, expedite the composting process. However, in households with substantial daily waste output, even overnight soaking yields noticeable benefits. Refer to our ‘tips and tricks‘ section for maximizing Compot efficiency in large families with substantial waste volumes.

Contrary to many composting methods that require semi-dry contents, Compots thrive on moisture—the wetter, the better, I say. As long as the Compot efficiently drains excess liquids into the soil, a slushy appearance indicates optimal conditions. Strive for the best approach tailored to your circumstances; there’s no definitive right or wrong method. Experimentation is key and rest assured, there’s always a solution if things don’t seem to be working out. Adapt your approach based on climate, garden layout, family size and waste volume.

When composting waste in chicken pens, soaking scraps isn’t necessary and might deter chickens. Allow them to benefit from Soldier Flies and any greens grown using the Compot Top within their enclosure.

You don’t necessarily have to cover the Compot, but doing so enhances its functionality by regulating temperatures, preventing moisture loss, and blocking out light. This fosters an optimal environment for composting organisms year-round, shielding them from extreme heat in summer and cold in winter.

When covering your Compot, opt for materials that allow for airflows, such as hay, crumpled leaves, grass clippings, coconut fibre, shredded bamboo or clean mulch. However, avoid using dirt or sugar cane mulch, as they attract rats, defeating the purpose of the Compot. Covering with dirt slows decomposition and hinders insect access.

Experiment with different coverings to find what suits your garden best. Personally, I find a mixture of mowed grass clippings and leaves to be effective due to their balanced nitrogen-to-carbon ratio. Shredded bamboo is also excellent, although it may incur additional costs.

If you notice house flies around your Compots, it indicates insufficient coverage. Ensure all openings, including the centre hole (if applicable), are adequately covered. House flies don’t harm your compost but you don’t want to be breeding house flies unless in a chicken pen. Chickens love flies and maggots also. With proper coverage, their presence can be minimized.

In cases where Soldier Flies haven’t located the Compot within a few weeks, temporarily uncovering some holes in the lid can aid their discovery.

If house flies manage to enter your pots, they’re not a significant concern, as they contribute to decomposition and usually perish within the Compot, becoming compost themselves.

In summary, covering the Compot offers numerous benefits for efficient composting. It creates a conducive environment while mitigating potential issues, ultimately contributing to successful waste decomposition, regardless of environmental conditions or pest presence.

It is the middle of winter and way too cold for anything to decompose.

Solution: Depending on your location, you may need to take specific steps to address the cold temperatures hindering decomposition. Firstly, consider adding warm water to your scraps before placing them inside the Compot. Additionally, ensure the Compot lid is covered to retain warmth. If the waste is frozen (although I haven’t encountered this issue yet), you might need to wait for the weather to warm up or try adding a denser layer of materials like grass clippings inside the Compot, on top of the waste. This extra layer can help insulate the contents. While this issue may not be common in most parts of Australia, Compots may naturally slow down during winter as Soldier Flies hibernate in colder months. However, in regions experiencing mild winters, you might still find active Soldier Fly larvae inside your pots.

You are not covering the lid with grass clippings, hay, mulch, etc., causing the contents to dry out and dehydrate instead of decomposing.

Solution: To remedy this, cover your Compot lids with materials such as grass clippings, hay or mulch—anything except soil, as Compots require proper ventilation. Additionally, add water to moisten the contents, as decomposition is more effective in moist conditions.

Your contents are too dry, possibly due to various factors such as lack of excess water with the scraps upon collection, dry garden conditions, uncovered lids allowing hot summer air to dry out the contents or cold winter air freezing or drying them.

Solution: To address dry contents, it’s crucial to cover your Compot lids to regulate temperatures throughout the seasons. Additionally, when collecting waste daily in a container on your kitchen sink, try to incorporate any wastewater that would typically go down the drain. This not only prevents water wastage, especially in areas with water restrictions or arid climates but also softens and moistens the scraps, enhancing decomposition and eliminating odours.

You can store waste covered with water for up to approximately 10 days, but prolonged storage may lead to unpleasant odours. It’s advisable not to wait too long to empty your scraps, although having them covered with water provides flexibility, especially during busy periods. If odours become noticeable, consider diluting them by adding more water or transferring the waste to your Compots.

This approach is particularly effective in winter when Soldier Flies might not be present to expedite waste decomposition. Even in areas lacking Soldier Flies, relying on water to break down waste can yield satisfactory results, especially if space allows for storage. At the very least, soaking scraps overnight in water significantly aids in decomposition.

It’s essential to understand that Compots operate differently from other composters, as they thrive on moisture—the wetter, the better. However, optimal moisture levels may vary based on factors such as location, climate, soil type, season and waste composition. Adjustments may be necessary to find the ideal balance for your Compots’ performance.

Despite taking various measures, the Compots aren’t showing any signs of progress. Sometimes, particularly depending on soil quality, location, climate, etc., Compots may take time to establish and function optimally due to the absence of bacteria or other beneficial microorganisms in the soil.

Solution: To initiate the composting process, consider introducing organic soil conditioner or microbes into the Compot. Organic soil conditioner contains essential microorganisms and nutrients that can kick-start decomposition, akin to inoculating the Compot. Alternatively, you can introduce compost from another system you might be using or try bokashi bran to introduce beneficial microbes.

Patience is key in allowing Compots to settle and start functioning effectively. Let the pots sit unattended for a few weeks and monitor their progress. It’s highly unlikely for no changes to occur within this timeframe unless the waste was frozen or dehydrated. If minimal progress is observed, consider adding wastewater or additional waste and continue to monitor. Eventually, the synergistic elements that drive Compot function will activate, leading to visible changes such as decomposition progress or the transformation of waste into soil.

If persistent issues persist despite these efforts, it’s advisable to seek further assistance. Feel free to contact me so we can discuss your specific situation and identify potential solutions. Every issue has a resolution and by addressing the particular challenges in your circumstances, we can find a viable solution together. Remember, there’s always a way to resolve any situation effectively.

Clay soil might be hindering the effectiveness of your Compots.

Solution: Dealing with clay soil can be challenging, but it’s possible to improve its quality by incorporating Compots into your gardening routine. Begin by digging a slightly deeper and wider hole than usual. Fill the bottom of the hole with twigs and small branches to enhance drainage and aeration. Plant your Compot in the prepared hole and backfill around it with an inexpensive potting mix if you don’t have excess soil available. Then, introduce worms to the surrounding potting mix outside the Compot.

Over time, the worms will naturally move sidways into the clay or sand gradually mixing their castings with the surrounding  soil. You may find that you need more Compots than others and periodic repositioning around the garden, perhaps every few months or annually, may be necessary. Additionally, consider rotating Compots, allowing one to sit and accumulate compost while cleaning out others every one to three months.

You can further improve clay soil by adding moist shredded paper or shredded bamboo around the Compots. These materials encourage worms to carry them deep into the clay, gradually enhancing its texture and structure. Shredded bamboo, in particular, serves as an excellent ground cover, maintaining soil moisture and aesthetic appeal in the garden.

Alternatively, you can place shredded bamboo or other organic materials directly into the hole before installing the Compot. This accelerates the process by facilitating worm activity, thereby improving soil aeration and structure. While shredded bamboo may require an investment, utilizing twigs from your garden is a cost-effective alternative.

Improving clay soil without expensive additives is a gradual process. While Compots can significantly contribute to soil improvement with the help of worms, it’s essential to manage expectations and understand that results won’t be immediate. Patience is key, as it’s a long-term endeavour. Some customers have reported success stories, such as transforming sandy soil, while others have found success by regularly moving Compots around their gardens to manage clay soil effectively.

Like the worm farm, this is a matter of opinion. However, it possesses numerous advantages over traditional composting systems.

Compost bins are typically large, unsightly, and occupy valuable space in your garden. The Compot, on the other hand, is compact enough to be concealed in your garden while being sufficiently large to compost all your household organic waste. Strategically place a few around your garden, rotate filling them, and allow the worms to distribute the nutrients.

Traditional compost bins often require a mixture of green and brown waste to compost effectively. Additionally, unless you have a bottom-emptying bin like a Tumbler, Gedye or Aero Bin, you must wait approximately six months before refilling them. These conventional methods are suitable for green garden waste but are inefficient in terms of space and time, as a significant portion of the composted material is lost into the ground directly where it sits.

Similar to worm farms, you cannot include meat products, citrus, onions, cooking fats, oils, or animal wastes in a traditional compost bin. However, the Compot can process any organic matter provided it isn’t hazardous chemicals, including medicated animal excrement (although animal waste is acceptable beneath a large ornamental tree). Soldier Flies are often employed to handle certain types of chemical waste that would ordinarily harm worms.

With the Compot, you only need to occasionally empty it to remove bones and large seeds or to collect soil for spreading around the garden. Give it an annual thorough cleaning and then simply start refilling it.

Unlike composters that require emptying and turning, you don’t need to manually distribute composted material around your garden with the Compot. The worms will take care of this for you.

Chemical fertilizers are reduced as your plants are naturally fertilized with the Compot, depending on your specific gardening needs, of course.

Large composters often become malodorous and waterlogged if they lack the appropriate carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. Conversely, a soggy mess in a Compot is ideal.

Unlike large composters, the Compot can be filled at any time. There’s no need to wait for all the waste to compost before refilling it. Just keep topping them up and let them nourish your garden effortlessly.

To prevent roots from infiltrating your pots, simply give them a twist in the garden to encourage root growth around, rather than inside, the pots. This typically occurs when pots aren’t being regularly topped up and plants are searching for nutrients in the soil.

If you’re unsure what to do with your green garden waste, simply mulch it up and return it to your garden. This speeds up decomposition without the need for spreading or turning. It also retains moisture in your garden bed and eventually becomes nutrient-rich soil.

Follow my easy Fast, Efficient, Portable, Simple (FEPS) method for disposing of weeds and small garden waste.

A few Compots placed strategically around your garden, concealed under mulch, will provide various nutrients to your plants with significantly less effort than traditional composters.

However, it’s essential to choose the method that best suits your needs. If the Compot doesn’t align with your objectives, traditional composting methods are always available for use.

It all depends on your dog. If your dog consumes its own waste, nothing will likely deter it from digging up your pots. However, if your dog doesn’t consume its waste, there are a couple of methods you can try to discourage them from digging:

1. Ferment your scraps, as I recommend when filling your pots with all your kitchen waste. Fermenting generally deters most dogs and other garden critters.

2. Leave meat out and ferment the remaining waste.

3. Cover your pot with some Rio wire or an old fan cover painted black, and secure it with stakes until the dogs learn not to dig them up. Alternatively, consider placing your pots in areas inaccessible to the dog. While this may not be feasible in every garden, training your dogs to leave the pots alone using this method can be effective.

4. If your dog doesn’t eat its own waste, you can place a lid (e.g., from a peanut butter jar) on top of the Compot lid and add a dollop of the dog’s waste to this lid. Add your fermented waste to the inside of your pots and leave the meat out. This way, the dog waste is separated from your food waste inside the Compot, and you can easily refresh it with more waste as needed.

Fermenting your scraps also helps keep away bush turkeys, little native antechinus (similar to a small mouse), possums, rats, and raccoons in Canada. However, if your dog consumes its waste, nothing will likely deter them from digging up the Compot. Therefore, it’s essential to consider your dog’s behaviour and either employ deterrent methods or place the Compot in an inaccessible area.

While these tips work for most dogs, they may not be effective for all. Therefore, conducting a test can help determine their effectiveness for your dog. Place some fermented waste in a takeaway container in your garden, away from areas the dog may destroy. If the dog attempts to consume this waste, the method may not work for them. In such cases, trying the method with a dollop of the dog’s waste on top may yield different results.

If these tests fail and you still wish to use the system for managing your dog’s waste, consider placing the pot in an area inaccessible to the dog. Ultimately, understanding your dog’s behaviour is crucial, but in general, combining fermented waste with their waste can deter most dogs, though not all.

You can use your Compots specifically for your dog’s waste, but avoid putting animal excrement in your vegetable patch. Instead, place it near a large old tree or any ornamental plant where it shouldn’t pose a problem.

See useful tips for managing animal waste.

Ideally, you want to attract the Black Soldier Fly to your pots, as these are the most remarkable flies of all time, capable of consuming ALL your kitchen waste. Distinguishing the Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFL) from regular maggots can be challenging when they are tiny. However, as they grow, they become markedly different from regular housefly larvae.

Additionally, Soldier Fly Larvae are excellent food for lizards, birds, water dragons, chickens and other animals.

While housefly maggots also aid in composting food scraps, ideally, you should not attract houseflies to your pots. If they do find their way in, it’s usually because the pots haven’t been adequately covered, but this isn’t a significant issue as they will further compost if unable to escape. So, there’s no need to worry if you find maggots in your pot. It’s typically a temporary issue, especially as you become accustomed to this type of composting.

The new lid design has addressed the problem of houseflies entering through the center hole. However, if you have the older style lid with holes around the outside, ensure proper coverage with grass clippings or hay to prevent their entry. Even if they manage to get in, houseflies struggle to escape as they do not burrow through the soil like Soldier Flies, thus they eventually become compost. While it’s rare to encounter houseflies in your pots, if you do, it’s nothing to fret over.

If you have chickens, both Soldier Fly larvae and maggots serve as good food for them. Consider planting a Compot in your chook pen to allow the chickens to help themselves to the larvae or maggots. However, only do this in your chook pen to avoid flies buzzing around your Compot in ornamental gardens or veggie patches. In the chook pen, this isn’t a concern as both types of flies are food for your chickens. I recommend using the “Above Ground Method” in your chicken pen, especially if your chickens are avid diggers.

Occasionally, you may find some Filter Flies or Vinegar flies in your pots. While they may startle you when you remove the lid, they won’t become excessively abundant. Simply ignore them and continue topping up your pot as usual. I’ve never encountered any significant issues with either of these little flies. And ensure you have a good seal on your kitchen collection container. Or soak your scraps for a longer period of time.

No, nature will take care of everything on its own. The air, water, soldier flies, bacteria, garden critters, and worms will naturally find their way to your Compot without any intervention on your part. It’s a hassle-free composting method. However, if you prefer, you can add an activator. The organic soil conditioner I sell is packed with microbes, or you can use any activator you prefer. Just sprinkle a teaspoon or two inside your pot with your scraps, and the bacteria will begin working even before the worms or soldier flies arrive at your Compot.

If you’re considering using Bokashi Bran or Spray, it has a similar effect to soaking your scraps. You can see the results of my experiments in Compost Comparison-5 Methods.   You’re welcome to use any of these methods of adding microbes to your compost. If any of these other methods are too dry, simply fill your waste collection container with wastewater the night before you plan to empty it. This will rehydrate the waste, reduce its acidity, and make it easier for all the bugs to break it down once you add it to your Compot. You can bury this waste in a hole, (if you prefer to dig holes) but it will take much longer to decompose. Though it’s still preferable to putting it in your council bin.

Yes, they are fantastic for raised garden beds as they help maintain moisture by continually releasing juices into the soil, especially on days when watering may be missed. Additionally, the worms spread their castings as they move around the garden, enhancing soil fertility. Many of my customers have reported that they work excellently as worm farms in raised garden beds.

However, you may notice that your raised garden beds require continual filling with soil or compost unless they are sealed off from the earth below. Over time, the soil compacts, and worms and ants may attempt to remove soil to level it with the ground soil. Therefore, maintaining raised garden beds may require extra effort to keep the soil level high.

Despite this, raised garden beds are ideal if you have back issues, very rocky soil unsuitable for planting, or compacted soil that’s challenging to dig. They’re also beneficial for urban dwellers growing vegetables on balconies. While raised garden beds offer a quick fix for poor soil conditions, be prepared to periodically refill them unless they are not connected to the soil below.

Yes, indeed. The composted soil produced, known as “Soldier Fly Frass,” is remarkably beautiful. To obtain this soil, simply cease feeding one of your Compots and allow it to rest for approximately 4 to 6 weeks. During this period, the larvae, bacteria, and other organisms will complete their tasks and vacate the Compot. Subsequently, worms may move in to finalize the composting process and contribute their castings to the mix.

Worms have a curious habit of attempting to level out soil, which may cause your raised garden beds to decrease in size as worms and ants remove soil down to ground level. However, inside the Compot (when buried), worms strive to fill the pot with soil. The extent to which they fill the pot will vary depending on the duration of neglect and the contents added to the pot, influencing the speed and volume of soil accumulation.

To collect the soil, simply scoop it out by hand or remove the pot entirely and spread the soil around your garden. When shaking the soil around your garden, you may notice that the pot acts as a large sieve, retaining bones and large seeds. However, reinserting the pot into the same hole may prove challenging, requiring you to adjust the hole’s dimensions accordingly.

You can use the soil contents before all the larvae disperse, preferably for filling a hole to plant a large tree. Avoid using it on indoor plants if it still contains bugs. A recent customer’s experience with spreading partially composted contents around her garden resulted in unwanted animals causing a mess. Therefore, I now recommend ensuring the contents are fully decomposed before spreading them around your garden, unless you plan to incorporate them into the soil.

If your Compots primarily contain fruit and vegetable scraps, you may find no soil to collect at all. However, this depends on factors such as the type of fruit and vegetables consumed, your soil quality, and climate conditions.

If you’re feeding your Compots worm-friendly scraps exclusively, you may find they require more frequent emptying compared to when using Soldier Flies. Nevertheless, the upside is a greater yield of composted soil to utilize elsewhere. This rich composted soil should be mixed into your soil or spread around the garden, ensuring it is well-watered. Alternatively, you can immerse some in a bucket of water overnight to create compost tea.

If you are keen to harvest large quantities of soil, the best method for this is the Above Ground Method.   Soil can be harvested every 3 months. Then start the process again.

Yes and no. While the Compot does produce worm tea, it’s not immediately visible as it all seeps into the soil, providing instant nourishment for your plants, or is further digested by the worms.

However, if you wish to create your own worm tea, simply harvest some of the composted soil and soak it in water for a few hours or overnight. Keep in mind that the resulting tea will be highly concentrated and should be diluted before use. I typically use roughly a handful of Compot soil per about 5 liters of water. If you have a sprinkler can with a removable head, it makes pouring the water mixed with soil onto your garden bed much easier.

The advantage of this method is that you can avoid concerns about inadvertently drowning your worms in excess worm tea if you forget to empty your worm farm. You can prepare the tea at your convenience, whenever you find the time. You can even store some in your watering can for later use on your garden or potted plants, or use it to nourish your lawn as Soldier Fly Frass Tea.

As a general guideline, I recommend starting with one Compot per person in your household, plus one additional unit for the garden. However, the ideal number depends on various factors:

1. Waste Production: Consider how much waste your household generates.
2. Climate: Different climates may affect composting rates.
3. Soil Type: The composition of your soil can impact composting.
4. Composting Method: Determine whether you rely on soldier flies, worms, or both for composting.
5. Objectives: Decide if you want the Compots solely for waste disposal or also for fertilizing your entire garden effortlessly without the need for extensive digging.

Some individuals, particularly vegetarians who consume a higher volume of healthy foods, may find that they require two Compots per person and two for the garden.

It’s often wise to start with 2 or 3 Compots and adjust the number based on your needs. For example:

• If you’re a family of five, consider starting with 3 or 6 Compots.
• If your household generates a significant amount of waste, such as a bucket full per day, you may need 6 Compots.
• If your waste consists mainly of fruit and vegetables, you might require fewer Compots as these materials decompose quickly.

Starting with 3 Compots allows for flexibility, especially if you have a large family or find that your waste production exceeds expectations. Additionally, you can utilize the “above ground method” by setting up one or two Compots above ground, which accelerates composting but may not nourish the soil as deeply as in-ground units.

Consider other factors such as the presence of chickens, fish, or dogs, as well as the use of other composting systems like worm farms or Bokashi bins. The Compot can complement these systems, offering additional waste management solutions for your household. For further insights on maximizing the effectiveness of Compots, refer to the provided tips and tricks.

If you’re filling your Compot solely with fruit and vegetables, the waste can vanish within one to two weeks, depending on various factors such as your location, soil type, and the time of year.

However, if you’re composting ALL your kitchen waste, it may take a bit longer, typically around 4 to 6 weeks, or up to 10 weeks in colder climates. The key is to continuously top it up without waiting for all the waste to disappear completely. Soaking your scraps can expedite decomposition, but this varies based on your diet and habits.

To collect soil from the Compot, you’ll need to let one sit for a month or two. During this time, soldier flies and other critters will complete their work before vacating the Compot. Then, worms move in to finish the process and attempt to fill the Compot with their castings. This method works exceptionally well if you’re using worm-friendly scraps and can even help in worm breeding.

Several factors influence how full the Compot will be after one month, including climate, contents, soil type, placement in your garden, and whether it’s covered. Experimentation is key, as different approaches may yield varying results in your garden. Regardless of the method, rest assured that everything will eventually compost down.

If you encounter any challenges or need guidance, feel free to reach out to me via phone or email. I prefer phone calls as they allow for a more efficient exchange of information, enabling me to address any issues promptly.

Yes, you can indeed add newspaper or any type of paper to your Compots. However, from personal experience, I’ve found it to be somewhat inefficient as worms take a considerable amount of time to break down paper. Nevertheless, if you’re keen on adding paper to your Compots, it’s best to shred it first and ensure it’s adequately moistened to expedite decomposition.

Alternatively, a more effective approach is to soak shredded paper in water overnight, lay it on top of your garden bed, and cover it with grass clippings or other organic material to maintain moisture levels. Regular watering will keep the soil and paper damp, encouraging worms to come to the surface and consume the paper. Nevertheless, this process can be slow.

If you find paper composting too time-consuming, another option is to dispose of it through your local council tip. Many councils have composting facilities equipped with large machines for efficient disposal. The same applies to cardboard, although you can use cardboard around your Compots to mitigate odors if your Compot has turned into a sump, particularly in clay soil.

For an efficient disposal method, consider using the Compot “above ground” or inside a planter pot container for paper, cardboard and fibrous garden waste. While this method may not nourish the soil as effectively, it offers rapid composting. Every three months, you can empty the container, collect the soil, and restart the process. Alternatively, continue topping it up, as long as there are worms in the soil and holes in the bottom of the container.

Utilizing this method can provide additional space in your garden without the need to purchase more Compots. Setting it up is simple, and it offers portability, making it akin to having two in-ground Compots. Check out my YouTube channel for videos demonstrating this method in various seasons and customer gardens. Above-ground Compots are highly portable and efficient for composting.

Worms face challenges navigating through clay or sandy soil due to its dry or dense structure. While they can move sideways into these types of soil, vertical movement is limited unless there are air channels present, such as in clods of clay. Clay soil, in particular, can impede the emptying process of Compots, leading to the formation of a smelly sump. Conversely, sandy soil allows nutrients to leach away too rapidly.

To address these issues, it’s essential to create a suitable environment for worms. Begin by digging a deeper hole for your Compot and filling the base of the hole with small branches, twigs & leaves, or a mixture of cheap potting mix and sawdust. Plant your Compot on top of this layer and backfill with the inexpensive soil. Then, introduce worms into this surrounding soil outside the Compot. Avoid placing worms inside the Compots, especially if they’re filled with “ALL” your waste.

As Soldier Flies break down the waste inside the Compot, juices will leach into the surrounding potting mix, attracting worms to incorporate this nutrient-rich material into their diet. The worms will move sideways into the clay or sand incorporating this in their diet ultimately improving your sandy or clay soil.

However, if you’re filling your Compots with only worm-friendly food, worms may congregate inside the pots, slowing down the process of improving clay or sandy soil.

Adding sand to the clay mix can aid in worm digestion of waste over time, gradually enhancing soil quality. But it is not essential.  Remember that this is a gradual process, and improvements will occur over time as worms work to amend the soil.

For optimal results, consider covering your garden beds and Compots with shredded bamboo. This material encourages worms to move it deep into the soil below your pots, improving aeration, texture, and structure. Over time, bamboo will decompose, further enhancing soil quality.

If you encounter challenges or have different results, don’t hesitate to reach out for assistance. Feel free to contact me at 0467 006 529 – Vicki.  Experimentation and adaptation are key to finding solutions that work best for your specific soil conditions and gardening preferences.

The recent upgrade to the website now offers a flat rate of shipping on all Compot bundles for only $10.00.   
The Specials now have FREE Shipping (except for Black Friday Specials)
Free Shipping does not apply to seed orders unless combined with an order of Compots

For garden supplements the updated website aims to provide you with the three most competitive postage rates, along with an option for signed delivery, offered by Couriers Please.  However, if you find the postage charges excessive, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me. I’m more than happy to explore alternative options and negotiate a deal that suits you. Your satisfaction is paramount, and I don’t want postage costs to deter you from getting the products you need.

Recently, Australia Post has adjusted its postage rates (as of 2022), and in many cases, their rates may now be more economical. Our website should automatically calculate and present the most cost-effective postage options for you. If you prefer, you can also conduct your own comparison check by following the instructions provided on each page. Simply click on the bundle of your choice and scroll to the bottom tabs to find specifications, including parcel weights and dimensions, as well as instructions for using Australia Post’s “Calculation” link for comparison checks.

In the event that I encounter difficulties booking your order with a specific courier, I’ll make every effort to secure a comparable rate with an alternative service. If there’s a significant difference in postage costs and I’m able to provide a refund, I’ll promptly process it. However, there are instances where I may need to pay a little extra to expedite your order’s shipment. Rest assured, I always strive to ensure your order is dispatched as swiftly as possible.

Furthermore, if I find that the postage rates seem excessive and I’m unable to negotiate a better rate, I may offer additional garden products or provide a special price to compensate for the postage costs. Ultimately, my goal is to ensure you receive the best value and service possible. So please, feel free to contact me at  0467 006 529. I’m here to assist you and address any concerns you may have regarding postage. Your satisfaction is my priority.   
All seed orders are posted with Australia Post unless the order is over 50 seeds.  We then compare prices between Australia Post and the couriers to get you the best postage rate.  
Seed orders are usually left in your letter box by Australia Post.  
For courier services you need to specify where the parcel can safely be left unattended in case you are not home.  
Feel free to call me to clarify the postage optins to your area as it can be quite confusing.   Ph: 0467 006 529 – Vicki